Manley MANLEY REFERENCE DIGITAL TO ANALOGUE CONVERTER Owner's Manual download pdf (Page 15)

TROUBLE-SHOOTING

There are a number of possible symptoms of something not quite right, some may be interfacing, others we will touch

on as well. If you suspect a problem the following paragraphs should help.

NO POWER, NO INDICATORS, NADA - Probably something to do with AC power. Is it plugged in? Check the fuse on

the back panel. A blown fuse often looks blackened inside or the little wire inside looks broken or it's resistance measures

higher than 2 ohms. A very blackened fuse is a big hint that a short occured. Try replacing the fuse with a good one of the

same value and size. If it blows too, then prepare to send the unit back to the dealer or factory for repair. The fuse is a protection

device and it should blow if there is a problem. If the unit works with a new fuse, fine, it works. Sometimes fuses just blow

for unknown reasons. Does the power supply LED come on and is the Standby LED dim? - its in standby mode.

LIGHTS BUT NO SOUND - Lights are on-nobody home. Probably got one too many lights. How about that INSERT

button? If that is on, and nothing connected or what is connected is off, then no music. De-selecting INSERT button should

"cure" that and a reasonable solution would be to just connect a short interconnect between the Insert Sends and Returns so

that accident won't be quite as annoying next time. Is that MUTE indicator lit? Maybe there isn't a valid digital input where

you've selected. Sometimes the digital reciever locks up and de-selecting/re-selecting solves the glitch and occasionally you

might need to try Standby to reset the DAC board - just like a computer. Don't forget about that 20 second warm-up delay

where the MUTE will be automatic. Last but not least is the Output selection if you are using Output 2 and/or Output 3. That

can certainly kill the signal too if its in the wrong state.

Next try plugging the in and out cables into each other or some other piece of gear to verify that your wires are OK. If not

fix them or replace them. Assuming that cables passed sound - it probably is still a wiring thing. The XLRs are transformer

balanced outputs which require both PIN 2 and PIN 3 to be connected somewhere. When driving an unbalanced input PIN

3 needs to be grounded or connected to PIN 1. Same with the unbalanced RCA phono jacks - if driving a balanced input you

can't ignore the negative side (pin3). It needs to be connected to the sleeve of the phono plug. Another way to do basically

the same thing is join PIN 1 and PIN 3 on the XLR male at the destination. Easiest way - Use the balanced Output 3 on the

Wave and use a normal balanced cable to drive that balanced input.

LEVELS SEEM TO BE WRONG, NO BOTTOM - Several possible scenarios. Pro gear uses the nominal standard of +4

dBm = Zero VU = 1.228 volts AC RMS. A lot of consumer gear uses a reference of -10 dBm = Zero VU. This is a 14 dB

difference that will certainly look goofy and may tend to distort. Often there are switches on the semi-pro gear to choose the

pro reference level. We do not provide that kind of switch because of inevitable compromises in the signal path. If the loss

looks close to 6 dB and it sounds thin then one half of the balanced signal is lost (1 leg not connected). The cause is probably

wiring again. One of the two signal carrying wires (the third is ground / shield on pin 1) is not happening. Check the cables

carefully because occasionally a cable gets modified to work with a certain unit and it seems to work but its wrong in other

situations. If only one side of the Wave exhibits this problem, it may be a problem in the Wave. See the next item. The INSERT

output is not standardly calibrated in reference to digital inputs and is simply the level that the DAC board outputs. We chose

to use less electronics here to keep the path as pristene as possible for the audiophile needs.

ONE SIDE WORKS FINE BUT THE OTHER SIDE IS DEAD - Let's assume this is not wiring. We are pretty sure it is

the WAVE. If it were solid state you would generally send it back for repair. Being a tube unit, you can probably find the

problem and fix it yourself in a few minutes. Not too many years ago, even your parents could "fix" their own stuff by taking

a bag of tubes down to the corner and checking the tubes on a tube tester - but these testers are hard to find today. A visual

inspection can usually spot a bad tube just as well. Be careful - there are some high voltages inside the chassis and tubes can

get pretty warm, but if you can replace a light bulb you should be able to cruise through this. Before you remove a tube, just

take a look at them powered up. They should glow a bit and they should be warm. If one is not, you have already found the

problem. The tube's filament (heater) is burnt out or broken like a dead light bulb. The other big visual symptom is a tube

that has turned milky white - that indicates air has gotten into the tube or we've joked "the vacuum leaked out". Either way

replace the tube. Manley can ship you a tested one for a reasonable price. Before you pull a tube, pull the power out, let the

unit sit and cool and discharge for a minute or two, then swap the new tube in, then power, then check. Gentle with those tubes,

don't bend the pins by trying to insert the tube not quite right. A little rocking of them as you pull them out or put them in

helps. The two taller tubes are the same so you can swap them. If the problem follows the tube you found the problem - a bad

tube. No soldering, no meters, one screwdriver - easy. See page 12 for a diagram of tube locations.

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Manley MANLEY REFERENCE DIGITAL TO ANALOGUE CONVERTER Owner's Manual Page 15

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